The Short History Of Kaftans
A symbol of bohemian style and exoticism Over time “kaftan” has become the catchall term in fashion for any loosely-fitting robe or tunic. The term is commonly used to describe the various kinds of clothing that are of Middle Eastern and North African origination (the Abaya, the djellaba, and burnouse, for example). A true kaftan is a narrow-cut, long robe that has full-length sleeves, which are either an open neck, or fully wide open down to the ground and occasionally buttoned. a huge, bulky garment with no sleeves, commonly known as a kaftan” actually more similar to the abaya.
Kaftan in Persia
Kaftan is a Persian word, and the garment style is believed to have been developed from Ancient Mesopotamia. The Ottoman sultans from between the 14th and 18th century wore elaborately embellished kaftans; they were also presented as a reward to high-ranking dignitaries and generals. It is made of nearly any material, but the majority consist of silk, wool, or cotton and are often bound with the help of a sash. Kaftans wear by both women and men in various variations across and across the Iranian plateau, throughout North Africa, and into West Africa. Typically, in hot climates its loose-fitting silhouette ensures proper ventilation, consequently it reduces body temperature (though Russians have a similar style of clothing called a Kaftan comprised of fur).
- When I was in Europe in Europe and North America, authentic kaftans were not worn except by a select few individuals and travelers who brought them home from exotic destinations as part of the fad of Orientalism and Turkish style interiors in the late 19th century. It was not until the 1950s and early 1960s that this style of dress began appearing in high fashion when it was adapted by French couturiers–including Christian Dior and Balenciaga–as a new form of loose-fitting evening gown or a robe over matching trousers. By 1966, Vogue described the kaftan as an essential garment for all members of the elite and featured “the beautiful people” in various traditional styles as well as western-inspired variations “Here is the fastest trendsetting fashions to be invented The elegance of serenade clings to them. peace and tranquility emanate from these garments. The classic robes of the Near East, they’re now, suddenly all over the contemporary map–inspiration of famous dressmakers and women’s discovering beauty …”
Hippies
The kaftan’s design was well-suited to the trends of the following decade, offering a basic silhouette that could be beaded and heavily patterned, or sleek and minimal (as seen in the styles that were created by Halston during the 70s). Women entertaining at home wore a “kaftan dress,” while at the same time more traditional designs were being introduced to the United States and Europe by young people who had traveled through the emerging “Hippie trail” from North Africa to Afghanistan. The popularity among the people of America of the kaftan, ranging from expensive to mass market and cheap imports–stemmed from its exoticism connotations along with the effortless convenience of these items. From the late 1970s to the past decade, Kaftan was no longer seen on the majority of runways for high fashion, instead being popular with fashion-forward clothing.
Tom Ford
A shorter length that was cut to micro-mini, Tom Ford took the kaftan shape to the realm of the erotic during Gucci Spring 1996. Designers looking to inject their collections with an “oriental” touch and nostalgia for the 1960s were able to re-discover the versatility of this piece. Fashion designers like Temperley and Matthew Williamson have continually reanimated the Kaftan’s Bohemian appeal, while other designers like Naeem Khan as well as Elie Saab have taken the kaftan on the red carpet with ornately embellished and beaded versions. The striking and graphic style of the kaftan enables designers to each put their unique interpretation on it while usually maintaining the ease of elegance and comfort that makes it so appealing to women from all over the world.